The Batignolles neighborhood: a village within the city

Multigenerational and full of character, the Batignolles neighbourhood, which once attracted artists such as Barbara and Paul Verlaine, is now a favourite among Parisian families who appreciate its leafy surroundings, away from the tourist bustle of neighbouring Montmartre. Nestled between Monceau and Épinettes, this charming corner of Paris brings traditional Haussmannian buildings together with more contemporary architecture.

A haven for artists

Ba-ti-gnolles... While the origins of this neighbourhood’s poetic, sing-song name are difficult to trace, one thing is certain: this part of Paris’s 17ᵗʰ arrondissement was only incorporated into the capital in 1860, by decree of Emperor Napoleon III. Previously part of Clichy and located beyond the Wall of the Farmers-General, the area was once covered in fields and vineyards before becoming a popular meeting place for Parisians who came to enjoy a drink in one of its many guinguettes while avoiding the city toll.

In the second half of the 19ᵗʰ century, artists began flocking to the area. The neighbourhood even lent its name to a circle formed around the painter Édouard Manet, whose studio was on rue Guyot: the Batignolles group. Some of the greatest names in painting regularly gathered at the now-defunct Café Guerbois, including Bazille, whose studio was on rue La Condamine, as well as Cézanne, Degas, Monet, Renoir and Sisley.

This bohemian and distinctly Parisian spirit continues to inspire our interior architecture studio today, where artistic references often shape the new interiors we imagine for apartments in the Batignolles. Laura’s project is a perfect example: a beautiful 51 m² apartment between Square des Batignolles and La Fourche, where the wallpapers evoke the abundant vegetation found in Impressionist painting.

Note

Around the same period, the poet Stéphane Mallarmé frequently welcomed friends to his home on rue de Rome, while Émile Zola lived for several years at number 14 rue La Condamine. Paul Verlaine grew up in the neighbourhood and later wrote there, while singer Barbara was born on rue Brochant. Literature, painting... the Batignolles are steeped in culture, but there is much more to discover. Here is a tour of our favourite places to stop throughout the day.

The Batignolles neighbourhood: our favourite addresses throughout the day

Morning

For your morning espresso, head to Dose, a coffee shop and micro-roastery that is also a great place for weekend brunch. It serves excellent speciality coffee, reportedly even a favourite of New Zealand’s All Blacks rugby team... This welcoming café is ideally located just a stone’s throw from Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois, the true heart of the Batignolles neighbourhood. With its fountain, terraces shaded by lime trees and small church, the square has the unmistakable feel of a village centre.

Coffee in hand for those in a hurry, or once breakfast is over, take a stroll through the bucolic Square des Batignolles, whose scenery could have come straight from an Impressionist painting. Geese and ducks wander freely among visitors across this 16,000 m² English-style garden. A stream, waterfall and even a grotto complete the idyllic setting, perfect for a peaceful start to the day.

Lunchtime

For lunch, it is time for a change of scenery. Head to the new Clichy-Batignolles eco-district, within Martin Luther King Park, to discover HOBA. At the top of the building is a food court with an outdoor terrace offering 180-degree views over the surrounding contemporary architecture. On the menu are environmentally conscious dishes prepared by committed chefs: Georgian dumplings, Japanese ramen and even some very English muffins. On the ground floor, a former 19ᵗʰ-century forge provides the setting for drinks, cooking workshops and talks dedicated to food. Discover the programme here.

After lunch, what better way to digest than with a short walk to the picturesque Cité des Fleurs in the Épinettes neighbourhood? Stretching for around 300 metres, this private lane reveals beautiful houses in a variety of architectural styles, changing character with the seasons. Alfred Sisley lived at number 27 for many years, so be sure to take a look.

Those with a sweet tooth are spoilt for choice when it comes to an afternoon treat, but one address is a particular favourite of ours: the organic bakery Bacillus, whose pastries are well worth a visit. It has three locations across the neighbourhood, including one in the covered Batignolles market. Speaking of markets, the organic Batignolles market, held every Saturday until early afternoon, is also well worth exploring.

Evening

Is it time for an aperitif? Absolutely. Settle into Le Bloc, a relaxed gem on rue Brochant with comfortable sofas made for long conversations... although not too long, because dinner awaits at Le Truffaut, a cheerful bistro with a pared-back interior and an invariably excellent menu celebrating seasonal produce. The perfect way to round off an indulgent day in the Batignolles.

Conclusion

As you will have gathered, the Batignolles neighbourhood offers a particularly appealing setting for life in Paris. With its many pockets of greenery and wealth of places dedicated to good food and good living, this charming corner of the capital deserves your attention.

And if you are considering buying and renovating a property in the Batignolles, we invite you to read our guide to apartment renovation and get in touch with our team.

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