Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a legendary enclave
As soon as you step out of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés metro station, it stands proudly before anyone curious enough to look up: the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. This former Benedictine abbey was founded in the mid-6th century by the Merovingian King Childebert I and Saint Germain, the Bishop of Paris. Converted into a parish church in the 19th century, it is the oldest of the great Parisian churches! It even served as a royal necropolis before the Basilica of Saint-Denis took on that role. While the building has endured numerous destructions and restorations over time, its nave is particularly worth a visit, as it remains one of the last vestiges of Romanesque art in the capital. In any case, the church is an excellent starting point for a stroll through the heart of the Saint-Germain neighborhood!
A neighborhood with a rich historical heritage
It is certainly not the only building worth a look: located just a few meters apart, the Monnaie de Paris (Paris Mint) and the Institut de France are particularly remarkable. The former is the work of architect Jacques-Denis Antoine, who led the construction commissioned by Louis XV in the latter half of the 18th century. Since 1775, this 30,000-square-meter neoclassical edifice, adorned with columns and pediments, has stood on the site of the former Hôtel de Conti. As the first factory established in Paris, it remains the only one still in operation today; beyond its public service mission of minting current euros for France, it also produces foreign currency. Walk a few steps further and you will arrive at the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts, recognizable by its facade decorated with frescoes and busts.
Another legendary spot in the neighborhood is Le Procope, founded in 1686 by the Sicilian Francesco Procopio Dei Coltelli, and considered the oldest café in the capital. It is said to be the first Parisian restaurant to introduce coffee and popularize it by serving it at tables in porcelain cups. It is a historical monument where you can catch glimpses of the past in every element of the original decor: 1830s wallpaper stamped with "Liberty, Equality," a wall covered with the 1789 Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen in one of the rooms, and Napoleon’s hat sitting proudly at the entrance—not to mention the roof and the wrought-iron balconies of the storefront, which are listed as historical monuments.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés: The cultural side
The neighborhood has always been defined by an intense cultural life. The "literary" cafés, such as Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, have seen the likes of Guillaume Apollinaire, Simone de Beauvoir, and Boris Vian pull up a chair, while the family-run hotel "La Louisiane" was frequented by everyone from Salvador Dalí and Keith Haring to Jane Campion and Quentin Tarantino. Beyond these meeting places for the artistic scene, the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood was home to several painters, including Delacroix, Ingres, and Manet.
From the 1945-50 period onwards, this hub of Parisian intellectual and cultural life began to pulse to the rhythm of jazz, with the opening of venues like Le Tabou and the Club Saint-Germain, where the greatest musicians, such as Miles Davis, would perform. Today, the neighborhood hosts the annual Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris at the end of every spring.
Among the museums to visit in the area, we highly recommend the Musée Eugène Delacroix, located in the painter's former apartment and studio. Featuring a charming secret garden, it is dedicated to the life and work of the Romantic painter and his circle (note: it is closed until March 2024). Finally, the Maison Gainsbourg, which opened to the public in 2023, allows us to step into the world of the "man with the cabbage head" through a guided tour narrated by the voice of his daughter, Charlotte.
Where to eat well in Saint-Germain-des-Prés?
Has all that worked up an appetite? Good, because we’ve unearthed several gems where you can grab a bite in the neighborhood. Located inside the Saint-Germain covered market, Mordu is one of those places where time stands still, thanks to its Art Deco setting and high ceilings. This bistronomic restaurant run by chef Alan Deloumeaux will delight food lovers, with dishes elevated by the selections of sommelier Olivier Machado. Another sure bet is Aux Prés, Cyril Lignac’s restaurant, which highlights meat dishes that pair perfectly with a cocktail. We strongly advise you not to miss the crispy crab galette with Madras curry and avocado—it’s a must! To satisfy cravings for something different, Kodawari Yokochō will transport you straight to the streets of Tokyo: despite decor that some might find a bit kitschy, you’ll enjoy some of the best ramen in the capital here.
Shopping in Saint-Germain-des-Prés
If you have a little money to spare, or just want to window-shop for the sheer pleasure of it, there are two spots you shouldn't miss: the iconic Le Bon Marché, founded in 1838, where it’s hard to leave empty-handed. To delight your senses, head over to L’Officine Universelle Buly 1903, which feels just like an old-fashioned apothecary. The shelves are lined with beautiful, fragrant products—perfumes, body oils, candles, and all sorts of creams. It’s the perfect place to find a gift for yourself or someone else!
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