Rue des Martyrs, where epicureanism awaits

It is said that Rue des Martyrs gets its name from a grim event: Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris, supposedly picked up his head after being beheaded under the Roman Empire alongside his companions. He is said to have walked up this famous street before dying a few kilometers to the north, where the Basilica of Saint-Denis was later founded. Rest assured: our stroll along this sloping, kilometer-long shopping street, which straddles the 9th and 18th arrondissements, will be anything but bloody.

Discover Rue des Martyrs

Over the years, certain addresses on Rue des Martyrs became home to brothels and cabarets, such as the Michou cabaret. You can still catch a show and dance at Madame Arthur, Paris's first drag cabaret, which opened in 1946. 

Rue des Martyrs is much more than just a party spot: it’s a lovely place to wander, especially on weekends when it is entirely pedestrianized. The street has been closed to cars on weekends and public holidays from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. since 2019, a decision supported by the removal of parking spaces, which were replaced some time ago by greenery. Throughout your walk, take a moment to admire the details of the storefronts and facades, which sometimes reveal vintage surprises.

Rue des Martyrs : our favorite spots

The perfect setting to start the day on the right foot with breakfast at the Pain Pain bakery, on the Montmartre hill, at the very top of Rue des MartyrsWinner of the Best Baguette in Paris award in 2012, Sébastien Mauvieux spends his days crafting beautiful loaves using flour from the Île-de-France region, alongside generous pastries like his pistachio-chocolate roll. To enjoy them at their best, take a break at Square Jehan Rictus, just a little further north, home to the famous "I Love You" wall.

For lunch, take a trip to the Caucasus, halfway between Europe and Asia, at Colchide—a restaurant named after the mythical Georgian region of the Golden Fleece. While meat lovers can feast on "Tchkmerouli," a young chicken served in a garlic sauce, you can also try the "Soko Ketze," mushrooms stuffed with cheese and cooked in butter in a clay pan. The wine list is particularly worth a look, featuring a fine selection of wines produced using the ancestral "qvevri" method, where grapes macerate with their skins in buried terracotta jars. 

After our Georgian feast, head to KB Coffee Roasters for a coffee break: this coffee shop at the corner of Avenue Trudaine and Rue des Martyrs serves drinks made from beans roasted in-house. It’s a fantastic spot for any time of day, with a particularly tempting menu of treats and desserts. A 3-minute walk away, coffee aficionados can also stop by MOMUS, a boutique roaster of exceptional coffees. In the shop, you can even create your own custom coffee blend with the help of a barista.

Summer or winter, you can't miss the ice cream at Glazed, which dares to offer original flavors like the mango and Espelette pepper sorbet, aptly named "Pump the Volume." Not to mention their comforting waffles and frozen yogurt made from farm-fresh dairy from the Île-de-France region.

As you head down Rue des Martyrs, stop at number 59, which is usually accessible during the week: this is the entrance to the Cité Malesherbes, home to some truly unique buildings. The house at number 11, built in 1856 by Anatole Jal for the painter Pierre-Jules Jollivet, features a stunning polychrome facade adorned with famous biblical scenes.

Another must-see spot in the Saint-Georges district is the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette church, which marks the end of Rue des Martyrs. From the outside, you’d never guess that this neoclassical building hides the most colorful church in the capital! You have to step inside to discover its walls, which are entirely covered in intricate decorations. 

After taking in the sights of these two landmarks, head over to Bleu Bao to enjoy some dim sum and other decadent baos in a setting reminiscent of an old Chinese family home. To start, choose one of the 8 cocktails paying tribute to the 8 Chinese regions before diving into the main event. Among our favorites is the “Dongpo” pork, braised and melt-in-your-mouth tender, served with bok choy. A must !

Conclusion

The rue des Martyrs has it all: a haven for foodies of all kinds, vibrant nightlife, and peaceful strolls along cobblestone streets. If you are looking for a property in the Saint-Georges neighborhood, the real estate project managers at Maison Kyka are ready to discuss your plans with you.