Discover the Abbesses neighborhood off the beaten path

The Abbesses district like you’ve never seen it before

Every morning, the same scene unfolds for Parisians and visitors alike at the Place du Tertre : dozens of painters and caricaturists set up their easels at daybreak to practice their craft. It is one of the must-see spots in the Abbesses district, which also features the square of the same name, home to the deepest metro station in Paris, marked by one of the most photographed Hector Guimard metro entrances in the capital.

As you exit, keep an eye out for the Church of Saint-Jean de Montmartre, built at the beginning of the 20th century and recognizable by its red bricks, Art Deco mosaics, sculptures, and stained glass.

Place Emile Goudeau offers a shady retreat for strollers beneath its chestnut trees. Visitors can discover the legendary Bateau-Lavoir, an artists' residence that once hosted the likes of Gauguin, Renoir, and Picasso, or simply sit on a bench and soak up the area's vibrant cultural energy.

As we wander through the neighborhood, we uncover some of its secrets: at Place Marcel Aymé, be sure to greet Le Passe-Muraille, one of the most unique statues in Paris. Inspired by the character from Marcel Aymé’s short story collection of the same name, it is sure to leave an impression.

A mystery also surrounds the "Witch's Rock," which can be seen from the bottom of 65 Rue Lepic through the fence, or from 23bis Avenue Junot. For years, this imposing, foliage-covered rock formation has been the subject of increasingly wild theories, some even questioning whether it is of meteoric origin. In reality, it is an old fountain (a "sourcière," or spring), which was also considered the last remaining spot of the Montmartre maquis during the Second World War. 

Not far from there, take a look at the picturesque Villa Léandre, a heavenly, bucolic cul-de-sac lined with charming houses and neat little gardens. Nearby, you’ll find one of the last video rental stores in Paris, where you can rent DVDs for a quiet night in (Vidéo Club de la Butte). Finally, head up to the bust of Dalida, sculpted by Alain Aslan. This Montmartre landmark is a victim of its own popularity, as evidenced by the singer's worn-down chest, rubbed by passersby for reasons known only to them. 

Have all these discoveries worked up an appetite? Good news: the neighborhood is packed with delicious spots, and here are our favorites.

Abbesses neighborhood: our favorite spots

Looking for an epicurean break away from the crowds? Head to the Musée de Montmartre, located in one of the oldest buildings on the Butte, built in the 17th century. Before or after your visit, settle into the Café Renoir for a charming moment in the gardens. Just as secluded is the terrace at the Studio 28 cinema, perfect for sipping a drink at happy hour or grabbing a quiche for a quick meal.

When you’re in the Abbesses neighborhood and looking for a traditional lunch that really hits the spot, head to Chez Eugène, Place du Tertre. Far from the tourist traps, this highly authentic spot serves up French culinary classics prepared to perfection, accompanied by a lovely wine list. From early morning until late at night, you can also order small boards, terrines, and omelets to grab a quick bite.

Another option: Le Chantoiseau, Lepic Street, which serves up beautifully crafted dishes made with fresh, high-quality ingredients, all delivered with a smile.

At any time of day, the coffee shop The beans on fire is easy to spot on Trois Frères Street by its red storefront: enjoy coffee roasted in-house, either to stay or to go, with or without a pastry.

Speaking of treats, those with a sweet tooth will be in heaven at Gilles Marchal, on Ravignan Street : you simply must order the madeleines, the signature creation of the man named Pastry Chef of the Year in 2004, or give in to the charm of the buttery shortbread cookies shaped like the Sacré-Cœur. 

Finally, even if you aren't staying there, stop by the Hôtel Monsieur Aristide, which houses an elegant restaurant featuring a market-fresh menu: the perfect spot for a romantic dinner, starting with a delicious cocktail at the bar. For the main event, settle into the comfortable floral banquettes inside, or choose a table in the garden on a sunny day to enjoy your meal by moonlight—the very same moon sung about in "La Complainte de la Butte" from the film Moulin-Rouge. 

Conclusion

Although the Abbesses neighborhood is very popular with tourists, it can also be explored off the beaten path. Take the time to discover it from a different perspective, and you will appreciate it even more. Is this your favorite neighborhood? Maison Kyka can help you find your dream property there.