Rue des Martyrs: a haven for epicureans
It is said that the Rue des Martyrs derives its name from a tragic event: Saint Denis, the oldest bishop of Paris, is believed to have picked up his head after being decapitated under the Roman Empire, along with other companions. He then reportedly walked up this very street before dying a few kilometers north, where the Basilica of Saint-Denis was later founded. But fear not: our walk along this bustling, sloping street, stretching nearly a kilometer through the 9th and 18th arrondissements, will be far from bloody.
Discovering Rue des Martyrs
Over the years, certain numbers on Rue des Martyrs have seen the establishment of brothels as well as cabarets, such as the Michou cabaret. In fact, you can still attend performances and dance at Madame Arthur, Paris' first drag cabaret, which opened in 1946.
Rue des Martyrs is much more than a place of celebration: it’s a lovely spot for a leisurely stroll, especially on weekends, when it is entirely reserved for pedestrians. Since 2019, the street has been closed to cars on weekends and public holidays from 10:00 to 20:00, a decision supported by the removal of parking spaces, which were replaced some time ago by greenery. Along the walk, one can't help but admire the details of shop fronts and facades, which sometimes reveal charming period surprises.
Rue des Martyrs : our favorite spots
An ideal setting to start the day off right with breakfast at the Pain Pain bakery, located at the top of Rue des Martyrs on the Butte Montmartre. Winner of the best baguette in Paris in 2012, Sébastien Mauvieux bakes beautiful loaves made with local flour from Île-de-France, as well as generous pastries, such as the pistachio-chocolate swirl. To fully enjoy it all, a stop at the Jehan Rictus Square, a little further north, is a must, where you’ll find the famous 'I Love You Wall'.
For lunch, we embark on a journey to the Caucasus, halfway between Europe and Asia, at Colchide, a restaurant named after the mythical Georgian region of the Golden Fleece. Meat lovers can indulge in a 'Tchkmerouli,' a poussin served in a garlic sauce, or taste the 'Soko Ketze,' mushrooms stuffed with cheese and cooked in butter in a clay pan. The wine list is particularly worth exploring, with a fine selection of wines made using the ancient 'qvevri' method, where the grapes are fermented in buried clay jars with their skins.
After our Georgian feast, it's off to KB Coffee Roasters for a coffee break: this coffee shop at the corner of Avenue Trudaine and Rue des Martyrs serves drinks made from beans roasted in-house. A fantastic spot for any time of the day, with a tempting selection of pastries and desserts. Just a 3-minute walk away, coffee aficionados will also stop by MOMUS, a specialty coffee shop. Here, you can even create your own custom coffee with the help of a barista.
Summer or winter, it’s impossible to skip the ice creams from Glazed, which dares to create original flavors like the mango sorbet with Espelette pepper, charmingly named 'Pump the Volume.' Not to mention the comforting waffles and 'frozen yogurt' made from local Île-de-France farm yogurt.
As you walk down Rue des Martyrs, make sure to stop at number 59, accessible during the week: this is where the Malesherbes Square opens, home to some unusual buildings. The house at number 11, built in 1856 by Anatole Jal for the painter Pierre-Jules Jollivet, features a stunning polychrome facade, adorned with famous biblical scenes.
Another must-visit spot in the Saint-Georges district is the Church of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, located at the end of Rue des Martyrs. From the outside, it’s hard to imagine that this neo-classical building hides the most colorful church in the capital! You must enter to discover its walls entirely covered with decorations.
After being dazzled by these two visits, we head to Bleu Bao to enjoy dim sums and other decadent baos in the setting of an old Chinese family house. To start, we’ll choose one of the 8 cocktails that pay homage to the 8 Chinese regions, before diving into the serious stuff. Among our favorites, the 'Dongpo' pork, braised and incredibly tender, served with bok choy. A must-try!
Conclusion
Rue des Martyrs has it all: a haven for epicureans of all kinds, lively nighttime activities, and a peaceful stroll along the cobbled streets. If you're looking for a property in the Saint-Georges district, the real estate project managers at Maison Kyka are here to listen and discuss your project.