From Bastille to Oberkampf, lively life in Eastern Paris

Place de la Bastille, crossroads of the 4ᵀᴴ, 11ᵀᴴ and 12ᵀᴴ arrondissements

For this new stroll, let’s meet at Place de la Bastille, at the foot of the historic July Column, erected in the mid-19ᵗʰ century. From here, we can glance at the Opéra Bastille, designed by Carlos Ott and inaugurated in 1989 for the bicentenary of the French Revolution. Next, let’s step into the picturesque Cour Damoye, whose discreet entrance lies at 12 Place de la Bastille. A peaceful spot to begin our exploration of this bustling district in utmost calm, surrounded by greenery. The best season to wander its cobblestones is undoubtedly spring, when blooming wisterias brighten the façades of the shops and offices tucked away here.

We then head towards the Hôtel de Sully, a must-see in the Marais district with its orangery, courtyard, and garden. After admiring the allegorical figures sculpted on its façades, push open the discreet door of the right-hand pavilion to discover a secret passage leading directly to Place des Vosges. A perfect opportunity to enjoy breakfast at Carette, the quintessential Parisian tearoom, always impressive with its array of viennoiseries, macarons, and pastries. Whatever you choose, do not miss their decadent hot chocolate.

This is also where you will find the Maison de Victor Hugo, which can be visited by reservation only, every day except Wednesday—an ideal cultural pause, retracing the steps of one of France’s greatest writers.

Heading towards the Folie-Méricourt district

Once satiated in every sense of the word, we take Boulevard Richard Lenoir, which leads directly to the Oberkampf district. Every Thursday and Sunday, the area comes alive with the Marché Bastille, one of the capital’s most gourmet markets. If you are still hungry, stop by the Papy Chichi stall, where churros are fried faster than the eye can follow. Another gourmet shopping destination is Maison Plisson, on Boulevard Beaumarchais, which showcases more than a thousand fresh artisanal and fine grocery products.

Continuing along Boulevard Beaumarchais, you will find on your right the Cirque d’Hiver, built in 1852 by architect Jacques Hittorff and now listed as a Historic Monument. Its statues, friezes, and bas-reliefs are well worth the detour.

We finally arrive at Oberkampf station, known as the epicentre of nightlife in this part of Paris. Yet the neighbourhood is equally delightful by day, filled with hidden gems and curiosities. Let’s start with a coffee at Dreamin’ Man, a tiny coffee shop where, upon entering, you may hear a few notes of a Neil Young track drifting from an old radio.

Since we are in the area, let’s also stop in front of the legendary Bataclan concert hall, today sadly remembered for tragic events. Its architecture is striking: inaugurated in 1865, it was designed by Charles Duval as a pastiche of Chinese architecture, with a flamboyant façade, oversized Buddha statues, and dragons adorning its cornices.

A change of atmosphere awaits at the Cité du Figuier, accessible at numbers 104–106 Rue Oberkampf. Hidden away from the bars, this bucolic haven is lined with small houses featuring colourful façades—don’t miss the turquoise one with its elephant frieze. Once a working-class enclave, this passage was originally home to metal workshops.

A Food Lover’s Neighbourhood

For a sweet interlude at teatime, two options stand out. First: Boulangerie Utopie, renowned for its inventive creations with black sesame—try their unique roulé or delicate madeleines. Alternatively, head to Aujourd’hui Demain, one of Paris’s best vegan addresses. Both a concept store and restaurant, it serves delicious pancakes and granola bowls alongside a tempting savoury menu. On cold days, pair your meal with a comforting hot spiced apple juice.

We round off the day with a drink at Little Red Door, ranked among the best cocktail bars in the world. Spotting it is simple: just look for the small red door. Its dimly lit ambience and velvet armchairs make it hard to leave, but dinner awaits—and for that, we know just the right place.

Back at Bastille, La Grande Brasserie offers a timeless setting with dishes from the repertoire of bourgeois cuisine: Burgundy snails, pâté en croûte, hand-cut steak tartare, salmon with sorrel, and for dessert, profiteroles and crème brûlée. An indulgent way to close the day, perfectly balanced between tradition and modernity.